RAINBOW ISLAND: A Journey to Hormuz, Iran

DR VERONICA NG’S JOURNEY TO THE
SMALL ISLAND OF HORMUZ, KNOWN
FOR ITS VIBRANT SOILS, SALT CAVES,
AND OCHRE-STREAKED STREAMS
AND BEACHES.
By Veronica Ng
The Valley of Statues overlooking the coast
A work trip to Iran in April afforded me the rare opportunity to visit Hormuz Island, a vibrant gem in the Strait of Hormuz, the critical maritime corridor connecting the Persian Gulf to the global waters. This small island, shaped by geopolitical, ecological, and economic forces, carries a rich historical tapestry.My journey began with a two-hour flight from Tehran to Bandar Abbas, followed by a one-hour ferry ride to Hormuz.International tourists are scarce here; the ferry administrator was surprised to learn I was Malaysian, possibly the first from my country to visit.
Ozar, a mobile projection boat that comes to life during performances
Arriving under the blazing summer sun, the ferry docked at the island’s northern settlement, the only inhabited area.My first encounter was the Rong Café, paired with the Visitor Centre-a striking ensemble of two beige superadobe domes connected by a stepped walkway that doubles as an evening performance stage.The domes, with their organic curves, blend seamlessly into the arid landscape, offering a modern interpretation of vernacular architecture.While Persian language dominates, some staff at the café and the visitor centre could converse in basic English, warmly welcoming visitors.For a modest $5, the Visitor Centre offers experiences to many destinations using tuk-tuk rides, the island’s primary mode of transport.
Evening at the Rong
After savouring coffee at the docks, I explored a renovated modernist house behind the café. It was originally owned by Polish artist and architect Jerry Pollock during the Second Pahlavi era (1941–1979).Now a gallery, it hosts community and cultural activities, including an exhibition curated by Ahmad Ali Kargavau and screenings from the Ozar, a mobile projection boat that brings educational and cultural content to locals and tourists alike.This adaptive reuse of historical architecture exemplifies Hormuz’s commitment to cultural vitality.
Renovated Jerry Pollock’s Residence which is now a gallery
A tuk-tuk tour along the island’s ring road revealed its historical layers: remnants of a Portuguese Salt and coloured soilfort, military installations, old water reservoirs, and bridges, alongside modernist buildings from the 1960s.Yet, Hormuz’s true architectural marvel lies in its geology. Known as Rainbow Island, this salt dome dazzles with vibrant soils, salt caves, and ochre-streaked streams and beaches.The landscape, painted in vivid reds, yellows, and oranges, feels like a living canvas, its hues shifting with the light.As the tuk-tuk traversed through the ring road, the view was stunning!The middle of the entire island is made of rainbow mountains, which are coloured by shades of minerals.The mineral colours of black, white, yellow, red, blue… make up a stellar landscape, no visitor of Hormuz wishes to miss.
Salt and coloured soil

I stopped by a stunningly beautiful natural site called ‘Valley of the Statues’.This journey was a hot 15-minute walk and a climb.Once I reached the bluff, a fantastic vista of the coastline was the reward.

Next, I stopped by Red Beach, one of the most spectacular beaches ever.The beach is surrounded by deep red hills and dunes.Locals set up small kiosks at the top of the hill and sell souvenirs and trinkets from the island.Be careful not to wear white, as you will end up having a red shirt later!

In the late afternoon, I arrived at Majara Residence, a 4-km journey from the dock.This gateless complex of 200 interconnected earth domes redefines the concept of hospitality architecture.Each dome, sharing a planar organisation, serves diverse functions-accommodation, public spaces, an art and design residency, a library, a concept store, a workshop, a chapel, a CSR centre, and restaurants.The domes’ fluid network of plazas, pathways, and staircases evokes a traditional organic settlement, with spatial zones defined by varied dome arrangements and evolving uses.

Small kiosks selling souvenirs at the Red Beach

Wrapped in four vibrant colours that flow from floor to wall to ceiling, Majara feels like a whimsical wonderland.Wandering its paths, climbing dome roofs, and strolling to the beach for a sunset view left an indelible mark.Unlike anything I’ve ever seen, the black sand on the beach literally sparkles.
It’s a magical feeling and a beautiful end to any evening in Hormuz.I spent a night at Majara, enjoying the accommodation.Throughout the two days, I visited Typeless, a cultural and community space for residencies.I immersed myself in a local cuisine and music workshop, experiencing Hormuz’s cultural pulse within its adaptive, open-air architecture.

Hormuz Island is a testament to constructed landscapes.Its superadobe domes, modernist relics, and geological artistry create a landscape where history, creativity, and environment converge, offering architects and travellers a vibrant, unforgettable experience.

Majara Residence, view from the ring road
Veronica Ng is a Professor and Head of the Architecture Department at the School of Architecture & Design, Sunway University, Malaysia.

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