A city steeped in history, politics, and culture, Jerusalem was uncannily serene on my travels there in December 2018. I had voyaged to this formidable land on a photography trip organised by a local travel agency, which had adroitly manoeuvred our party through the border via Jordan. Thankfully, the 12-day trip passed by without a hitch, though we were constantly warned not to attract attention, to not look at the IDF soldiers, and of course, to be sensitive with photography.
As the epicentre to three of the world’s major religions, Jerusalem is not unfamiliar to foreigners. My eyes feasted on the many nationalities that passed through the Old City’s labyrinthian passages, each of them wearing garb appropriate to pilgrimage; pastel-hued, flowing, and long.Our trip’s itinerary brought us to the Dome of the Rock, the Western Wall, and the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, arguably the most important holy sites for Islam, Judaism, and Christianity respectively.
Dome of the Rock, a fusion of Byzantine, Roman, and Islamic architecture, sits on a flat elevated plaza, known to Muslims as al-Haram al-Sharif (the Noble Sanctuary), and to Jews as the Temple Mount (where the temple of Jerusalem once stood). Upon approach, the golden dome glistens, looming above 16 columns to form the mosque’s octagonal structure. The dome itself is made of gilt aluminium and bronze. On its exterior facade, intricate mosaics of detailed Quranic calligraphy and patterns are laid out in vibrant blue and yellow.
During our visit, the Western Wall was a hubbub of activity. Colloquially known as the‘Wailing Wall’, it is the holiest site for Jews. Prayers are traditionally spoken or written down and placed into the cracks of the wall; many opt to celebrate their Bat Mitzvahs here. The site is home to the First and Second Temple, while the wall is the remnant of the retaining wall surrounding the Second Temple. The wall currently visibly stands at 19 meters, although its original height was 60 meters.
The Church of Holy Sepulchre, created in the 4th century, is believed to be the site where Jesus was crucified and also houses Jesus’s empty tomb, where he was buried and resurrected. The Church has survived centuries of reconstruction, though parts of the church remain original from the age of Crusaders, including the large, carved wooden doors composing its main entrance. The complex comprises the tomb, a great basilica, and a columned courtyard. Inside is the altar of crucifixion, and a passage that leads to the rotunda (or Anastasis) where the Holy Aedicule stands. Light pours dimly from its domed, ornamented roof, a remnant of its Roman influence.
A brief architectural essay on Jerusalem would not be complete without the mention of the West Bank barrier. The separation barrier built by Israel is a structural manifestation of the Israeli-Palestinian conflict, a site of political violence and racial segregation. It currently spans a length of 708km, punctured by security barriers. The Palestinian side of the barrier is covered in graffiti and artwork commenting on the state of affairs. Worth noting is Banksy’s Walled Off Hotel in Bethlehem, right across the wall, operated by Palestinians.
